PC Builder

How to build a PC with this PC part picker

1. Start with the CPU. The processor decides which motherboard socket you need, so everything else follows from it. Not sure? Press Help me choose, type a budget, and we will assemble the whole thing for you.
2. Pick a motherboard. We only show boards with the matching socket, and we tell you what the chipset letters (A, B, X, H, Z) actually mean.
3. Add memory, a graphics card and storage. DDR4 and DDR5 are not interchangeable, so the list is filtered to what your board takes.
4. Choose a power supply, case and cooler. We check wattage with headroom, graphics card length, cooler height and radiator size, and warn you in plain English if something will not fit.
5. Find prices. Set your country, then use Find prices on each part to open live searches at the retailers people actually use where you live.

Why use ZillaKit's PC builder?

Most PC part pickers assume you already know what a socket is, why DDR4 memory will not go into a DDR5 board, or how many watts an RTX 5070 Ti really needs. This one assumes the opposite. Every spec has a plain-English explanation attached to it, every warning tells you what to do about it rather than just flashing red, and the budget wizard will build the entire machine for you if you would rather not learn the jargon first. The compatibility engine checks the things beginners actually get wrong: CPU socket against motherboard socket, memory type and stick count against the board, motherboard size against the case, graphics card length against case clearance, cooler height against the case, cooler mounting against the CPU socket, radiator size against what the case can mount, power supply form factor against the case, and total system wattage with a sensible safety margin on top. It also nudges you when something is technically fine but not sensible — a graphics card far stronger than the CPU driving it, a single memory stick running at half speed, or a 1200W power supply on a build that draws 300W. Prices are honest: the budget wizard spends your money against real market prices — the daily median of matching new eBay listings in your country — rather than a stale list someone typed in once, so a build that says it costs $1,555 costs roughly that. Where no listing could be matched reliably we say "estimate" instead of pretending, and we always send you to live retailer searches in your own country, because the real price is whatever your local shop is charging today. Nothing is uploaded — your build lives in your browser, and the share link is just your part list encoded in the URL.

A quick guide to choosing parts

CPU

For pure gaming, AMD's X3D chips (like the Ryzen 7 9800X3D or the cheaper 7800X3D) are the fastest because of their extra cache. For video editing, 3D rendering and heavy multitasking, core count matters more, which is where a Ryzen 9, Core i7/i9 or Core Ultra 7/9 earns its money. For office work, almost any modern six-core chip is more than enough — and a chip with built-in graphics means you can skip a graphics card entirely.

Graphics card

The graphics card sets your frame rate, so it is usually the largest slice of a gaming budget. Match it to your monitor: 1080p is happy with a card like an RTX 5060 or RX 9060 XT, 1440p wants something around an RTX 5070 or RX 9070, and 4K really wants an RTX 5080 or better. Watch the memory: 8GB cards are fine at 1080p but run short at higher settings, so 12GB or 16GB is the safer buy if you keep a PC for years.

Memory and storage

16GB is the floor in 2026, 32GB is the comfortable default, and 64GB is for video and 3D work. Always buy two sticks rather than one — two sticks run in dual channel and are meaningfully faster. For AMD AM5, DDR5-6000 CL30 is the sweet spot. For storage, one 1TB or 2TB NVMe drive is the simple answer; games install fast and you can add more later.

Power supply, case and cooling

Buy a power supply from a known brand with at least 30–40% headroom over your estimated draw, and prefer 80 PLUS Gold with a native 12V-2x6 cable if you are running a modern high-end NVIDIA card. Cases are mostly about airflow and clearance: check that your graphics card length and cooler height fit before you buy. A good $40 air cooler beats a cheap liquid cooler for most people; liquid coolers make more sense on hot chips like a Core i9 or Ryzen 9.

FAQ

Is this PC builder free, and do I need an account?

It is free and there is no signup. Browsing parts, building, and checking compatibility are completely unlimited. Only exporting or printing your finished build uses one of your daily ZillaKit credits, and you can top those up for free.

How accurate is the compatibility checker?

It checks the things that account for nearly every failed first build: socket, chipset, memory type and slot count, board size versus case, graphics card length, cooler height and socket support, radiator size, power supply form factor and wattage. It cannot check every possible BIOS revision, so if you are pairing a very new CPU with an older board, check the manufacturer's CPU support list for a BIOS update before you buy.

Where do the prices come from?

Three things, clearly labelled. Prices marked Market are the median of the current new, fixed-price eBay listings that genuinely match that exact part in your country's marketplace. We refresh them once a day on our server, we take the median rather than the cheapest (the cheapest new listing is usually a fluke or a mislabelled accessory), and we throw out anything whose title does not actually describe the part — brackets, backplates, "for RTX 5070" tat, the wrong model, an 8GB kit standing in for a 32GB one. Parts where fewer than three listings survived that filter fall back to an older Estimate figure, and are labelled as such rather than dressed up as fact. ⚡ Live prices, where you see it, are real listings fetched from eBay's official Browse API on our server: new-condition, fixed-price ("Buy It Now") listings only, the five cheapest we find, shown in that eBay marketplace's own currency with shipping and the seller's feedback percentage next to each one. Those results are cached for up to an hour, so a listing can sell out between the refresh and your click. Nothing is scraped, and no prices are stored against you. The Find prices links open plain searches at Amazon and the popular price-comparison sites for your country — StaticICE and PCCaseGear in Australia, Newegg in the US, Scan and Overclockers in the UK, Geizhals in Germany, and so on. eBay is one shop among many and frequently not the cheapest, so compare before you buy.

What power supply wattage do I actually need?

We add up your CPU and graphics card power, allow for the motherboard, memory, drives and fans, then add roughly 40% headroom for power spikes and future upgrades. That is the number in the meter. Modern graphics cards can spike well above their rated draw for a few milliseconds, which is why the headroom matters more than it used to.

Can I save or share a build?

Yes. Save any number of named builds to your browser, or press Share link to get a URL with your part list encoded in it — send it to a friend and it opens with every part already selected. Nothing is stored on a server.

Do I need to buy Windows?

You need an operating system of some kind. A retail Windows 11 Home licence is the usual answer, a retail licence from an old PC can often be reused, and Linux is free and increasingly good for gaming — though some competitive games with kernel anti-cheat will not run on it. Add it to the build so it lands in your budget rather than surprising you at checkout.

Is my build data uploaded anywhere?

No. The parts list, your saved builds and your country choice live in your browser's local storage. The share link encodes the part list in the URL itself. Nothing is sent to a ZillaKit server.